Highest Summits of Ecuador

Your climbing adventure begins today as you arrive at the airport in Quito. From here, you’ll transfer to your hotel where you can either rest up for the adventure-filled days ahead or set out to explore the capital city independently.

Today you’ll come to know and love Ecuador’s magnetic capital of Quito. Enjoy a full day private city tour in the historical part of Quito, including La Basilica Church, La Compañia Church and El Panecillo Hill. Watch the transformation before your eyes as you make your way from the new part of the city to the stunning historical and colonial section of Quito. You’ll take in Quito’s remarkable churches and plazas and will find yourself immersed in the local atmosphere, which will no doubt leave you charmed.

Later, you’ll continue to “El Panecillo”, the hill in the center of Quito overlooking the city and the historical center. With good weather, you may be able to spot several of the snow-capped volcanoes on the outskirts of Quito. Following lunch, you’ll visit “Mitad del Mundo” where you can stand on the equatorial line and do some neat experiments.

This morning you’ll be picked up at the hotel in Quito and transfer 2 h to the trailhead at 4150 m. From the parking area, the hike will ascend through changing vegetation up to the moraine. The ascent is very straight forward, but the distance to cover is considerable and the altitude gain will prepare you for the higher summits.

The trail back is the same as the ascent. After returning to the parking area, you will transfer along the beautiful “Volcano Avenue” to a mountain lodge located close to the town of El Chaupi (2930 m).

Today’s climb begins after an hour transfer from the mountain lodge up to the parking area (3680 meters). From here, the group will follow a trail through the “paramo” (Andean highland), which changes as it gains altitude into a rocky moraine. The terrain gets steeper on the climb to a well marked ridge that ascends to a valley divided by the twin peaks. Here you will find the Nuevos Horizontes hut (4677 m).

After arrival, the mountain guide will give the pertinent instruction for the next day’s climb and will help to prepare all the needed gear. The Nuevos Horizontes hut is a very, very basic accommodation with one communal room where both the bunkbeds and the kitchen are located. The hut has basic services such as a kitchen, dining tables, and toilets.

The goal of day 5 is to climb the North Illinza, one of the twin summits of the Iliniza massive. The north summit is the easier of the two from a technical point of view, but still a demanding physical ascent. The climb starts from Nuevos Horizontes hut (4677 m) and heads towards the col, before turning to the north.

The climb itself is very scenic, as it follows the southern ridge of the mountain with spectacular landscapes on both sides. During the ascent there will be short easy scrambling sections before reaching the summit. Depending on the logistics, weather conditions, and the physical shape of the team, the descent can be done by the same trail or following the northern ridge, down a big scree area that turns it into a circular route. Back at the parking area, the team will be transferred (2-3 h) to the town of Otavalo.

Following a good rest and a well-deserved breakfast, a 2-hour transfer will take the group to the Cayambe’s parking area (4,350m / 14,271ft). Then you’ll set out on a 1-hour hike to the Cayambe mountain hut (4,621m / 15,160ft). Enjoy a short break here before continuing the hike for another 30 minutes, first down and then slightly up, to the low part of the glacier that is located just in front of the hut. Once there (4,680m / 15,354ft), the team will gear up and follow the guide’s instructions in the use of crampons, ice axes, rope and all the appropriate technical gear for the climb.

This is in no way an alpine course, just a brief introduction to the techniques needed for the upcoming ascent. This activity will also improve acclimatization due to the physical activity in altitude. After the training, the team will head back down to the hut for the night. The rest of the afternoon is for the climber’s preparations. The guides will do a detailed briefing about all the aspects of the ascent and help to organize all of the gear. An early dinner will be served and then it’s time to rest, until the guides call for breakfast, usually around midnight.

The summit day starts very early; departure time will be set by the mountain guides, according to the team’s physical condition and the weather forecast, usually in the range between 11PM and 2AM. Breakfast will be served 1 hour before the scheduled departure. The team will begin the ascent from the hut heading up a moraine for about 1.5 -2 hours. Once on the edge of the glacier, the group will gear up and divide, in case of a big group, into smaller teams in a range of 2 clients for 1 guide. The climb of Cayambe is quite long and requires endurance and a good deal of mental strength. Cayambe’s glacier is on the biggest ice mass in the country and its climb, even though it is not technically difficult, it's a series of crevassed areas and some icy slopes that make the route interesting. The first section of the glacier is a gentle slope until a rocky formation called Picos Jarrin is reached. From here, the route goes by the main ridge that leads up to the summit. There are a few sections and passages that are very icy on the ridge. The main obstacle on the higher part of the mountain is the altitude, so perseverance is the key factor. The weather on Cayambe changes rapidly, as it is located on the Eastern range looking down into the Amazon, so this is also a determining factor for a successful ascent. The climb takes an average time of 7-8 hours.

The summit itself is just spectacular and with luck, the view is worth every step of the way. The descent is done heading back the same way and usually takes between 3-4 hours. Once back at the huts and after the whole group reunites, the team will hike down to the parking place and the transport will be waiting to take the team to Cotopaxi National Park (3h).

Today is an easy going day with time to enjoy the hotel in Papallacta and its hot springs. After lunch you will transfer up to Cotopaxi National Park by the Northern flank, known as “Control Norte”. Here, you will have time to enjoy one of the best mountain huts in Ecuador: Tambo-Paxi. It has an excellent view of Cotopaxi volcano.

This morning following a hearty breakfast, there will be time to get all the gear organized and enjoy the morning at this lovely location. Around midday, the team will jump into the vehicle for a 1-hour transfer to the Cotopaxi’s Parking area (4,587m / 15,049ft). Then a 1-hour hike to Cotopaxi’s Mountain Hut (4,847m / 15,902ft), the rest of the afternoon is for climbing preparations. The guides will do a detailed briefing about all the aspects of the ascent and help with all the gear. An early dinner will be served followed by time for rest, until the guides call for breakfast, usually around midnight.

Summit day starts very early and departure time will be set by the mountain guides, according to the team’s physical condition and the weather forecast. You can expect to depart in the range between 11PM and 2AM. Breakfast will be served 1 hour before the scheduled departure. The team will begin the ascent from the hut following a well-marked trail that gently ascends over a fine stoned moraine for about 1 hour. Once on the edge of the glacier (4990m), the group will gear up and divide into smaller teams in a range of 2 clients for 1 guide.

The Cotopaxi climb requires endurance as well as mental strength. Cotopaxi’s glacier is quite safe and the climb is not technically difficult, but there are a few crevassed areas and some icy slopes that make the route challenging but thrilling. The first section of the glacier is a gentle slope that gets steeper as it reaches higher, there are a series of switchbacks known as “Heart Breaker” which are the toughest part of the ascent due to the demanding steepness and continuity. Following this, a very nice ridge gradually gains altitude, passing close to the prominent rock face which is known as “Yanasacha” at about 5,630m. From this point, a relatively long traverse to the right ensues before another set of switchbacks that lead up to the crater’s rim and just a few meters later to the main summit. The climb takes an average time of 7-8 hours.

Cotopaxi’s summit is one of the most remarkable ones especially when looking down into the double rim crater. On clear days, it is possible to see most of the neighbouring volcanoes such as Antisana, Cayambe, Ilinizas, Chimborazo, El Altar and the active Tunguragua. The descent is done following back the same way and takes between 3-4 hours. Once back at the huts and after the whole group reunites, a short hike down (20 minutes) to the parking place is followed by a drive to the town of Baños de Santa Agua (3h).

The town of Baños lies in the Tunguragua province at the foothills of the active Tunguragua Volcano (5,023m / 16,479ft). Baños is known as the “Gateway to the Amazon” as it is the last Andean town before reaching the Amazon basin. Due to its privileged location, this town offers a wealth of adventure opportunities.
Outdoor sports are also popular here, like mountain biking, rock climbing, and hiking. You can also opt to relax in the rejuvenating hot springs here if some rest is in order today.

Baños also boasts stunning scenery with famous waterfalls that lie just a few kilometres down the valley. The best known are “El Pailon del Diablo” (Devil’s pot) and “El Manto de la Novia” (the bride’s veil), which can be visited by taking a local taxi. The “Tarabita” (Cable-car) to cross over the Pastaza River is also an experience well-worth setting out on and it is also possible to hike through the orchards and gardens of the local inhabitants here.

After a day of fun and relaxation in Baños, climbers will pack up and drive 3 hours back to the highland heading towards Chimborazo National Park.

Chimborazo Volcano is a formidable mountain that stands out from “Volcanoe Avenue”. The indigenous farmed land that surrounds the mountains are all traditionally worked and very colourful during the harvest season. While driving up to the main entrance, you’ll observe the dramatic landscapes where the impacts of old eruptions have shaped the geography of the land. After crossing the park borders, the landscape turns very arid, like a desert.

The road goes all the way to the door of the lower hut “Refugio Hermanos Carrel” (4,800m / 15,748ft), from where the hike starts toward Chimborazo’s high camp (5330 m). Once on the trail, the first part traverses a flat moraine until it begins to gain altitude until reaching the top of the ridge. After a short walk along the ridge there is a flat area at the base of a rock tower known as “El Castillo”, the place where the high camp is located.The rest of the afternoon and evening will be devoted to preparations for the climb followed by an early dinner. The mountain guides will provide all the information and help to assure the best logistics for the demanding climb ahead.

Chimborazo is the highest mountain in Ecuador and is also the highest in the world, if measured from the center of the earth, due to its location on the tropical belt. The mountain boasts five major summits which are all linked by a ridge known as the “Arista del Sol” (Sun’s ridge). The main summit is the Whymper (6,268m / 20,564ft) which is named after the British mountaineer Edward Whymper, who has the first person to climb it in 1880 along with the Swiss Carrel brothers.

Climbing Chimborazo by its normal Southwest route is an arduous task—a 938m ascent followed by a 1468m descent in one push at a considerable altitude. The terrain is complex, as it morphs from an easy moraine trail to ice, snow and rock sections, with some easy scrambling. Even though it is not a technical climb, it is undeniably physically demanding. The climb starts between 11PM and 12AM, according to the team’s fitness, acclimatization level and meteorological conditions.

The first part of the route is no longer the normal route, but a variant known as the “Marco Cruz route”, which is named after the legendary Ecuadorian mountaineer who first ascended it. This variant joins the normal route after the “El Castillo” rock pillar and makes the ascent much safer and more beautiful. Once on the march, the first part of the climb is basically a flat moraine until it begins to get steeper, with a few scrambling sections, before reaching the top of the ridge. After a short while hiking on the ridge, an exposed section reveals itself as you hike around the “El Castillo” rock before reaching a flat area where the variant route joins the normal route. The glacier rises on a wide ridge that goes up to an approximate altitude of 5850m. From this point, a gentle traverse elevates westwards reaching 6000m and then a relatively straight uphill climb to the first summit: the Veintimilla (6,230m / 20,439ft). Then, descend a few meters to cross a col and then back up to reach the main summit: Whymper (6,268m / 20,564ft). This is a brilliant ascent to a summit above 6000 meters and a true test of one’s physical and mental endurance.

The descent is done by the same route back to the Carrel hut and, after packing, there will be a transfer ready to take the group back to Quito. The drive back to Quito takes approximately 4 hours to reach your hotel for the final night.

Time to leave the volcanoes of Ecuador! You’ll be picked up at the hotel to transfer out to Quito’s Airport where the tour ends. Transfer time is 1-2 hours.