Forbidden Peak Climb
Forbidden Peak is one of Washington’s 100 steepest climbs, and it is a Class 5 climb only recommended for those with mountaineering experience and the proper gear. The horn-shaped summit offers remarkable views in all directions, and each ascent approach offers great rock quality. The West Ridge is the most commonly climbed route, likely due to its inclusion in the 50 Classic Climbs in North America.
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Route Description for Forbidden Peak Climb
Forbidden Peak is not a day hike. This peak is Alpine Grade II-III and 5.2-5.8 depending on the route. While hikers can get part way up the summit, it is unreachable without mountaineering experience and equipment. For those who do summit, astounding views can be seen in all directions.
Forbidden Peak is one of the most popular mountains in the Cascades for its excellent routes, great rock quality, and incredible views. Selected Climbs in the Cascades by Potterfield and Nelson states that "there is no easy way off Forbidden Peak; it is one of the most difficult descents in the range." It’s well worth doing if you have the appropriate experience. Anybody can enjoy the sight of the pointed peak from afar.
Getting to the Forbidden Peak Climb Trailhead
Forbidden Peak is accessed via Boston Basin. Climbers often use the Cascade Pass trailhead.
Route Information
Forbidden Peak Climb Elevation Graph
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Nearby Trails
- Sahale Arm Trail to Quien Sabe Glacier
- Ruby Mountain Summit via Fourth of July Pass and Thunder Creek
- McGregor Mountain Trail
- Howard Lake via PCT
- Bridge Creek Trail
- Old Wagon Trail
- Eldorado Peak Climb
- Cascade Pass and Sahale Arm Trail
- Cascade Pass Trail to Cottonwood Camp
- Fourth of July Pass via Thunder Creek
- Cascade Pass Trail
- Thunder Creek Trail