Chimborazo Climb

Headed for Pasocha Volcano this morning, you’ll be picked-up at the hotel to transfer (2h) to the trailhead which is located at an altitude of 3848m. From this point, a very well-marked trail paves the way by farmland up to the paramo area. The trail then heads southwards, ascending progressively until the base of the crater. The final section is the steepest and follows a mountain trail up to the crater rim. The last meters to the summit are completed by the edge of the crater with superb views down to the valley of Machachi, which is also known as the “Volcanoes Avenue” and the highlands are visible in the west. On clear days here, there is a perfect view of the Cotopaxi, Sincholagua, Rumiñahui and Artisana volcanoes. You’ll return via the same path back at the starting point, from where the group will then be taken back to Quito.

The mighty Pichinchas are three summits found on the Western range just above Quito. The Guagua Pichincha is the highest and the youngest of the summits and the other two are the Rucu Pichincha and the Padre Encantado (Enchanted father, both of them lower. Guagua is also where the last eruption took place in the year 1999, but it is now considered safe to climb by geologists. The Guagua and the Rucu are very popular ascents, due to their location on the outskirts of the capital and their convenient access points.

This morning you’ll be picked up from your hotel in Quito to set out on a 2-hour transfer to the head of the trail at 4150m. The hike begins with an ascent via a “paramo” area winding its way through changing vegetation up to the moraine. While the ascent itself is straightforward, the distance to cover is considerable. There is a sizable gain in altitude during the hike, which works well as a preparation for the higher summits. The trail back is the same as the ascent. You’ll then wrap up the day with a 2-hour drive on the beautiful “Volcano Avenue” to your mountain lodge found close to the town of El Chaupi (2930m).

Today’s adventure begins with a 1-hour transfer from the mountain lodge up to the parking place located at 3680 meters. The group will then set out on a trail through the “paramo” (Andean highland), which changes as it gains altitude into a rocky moraine. The terrain gets steeper and soon reaches a well-marked ridge that continues skywards to a valley that divides the twin peaks and is also where the Nuevos Horizontes hut (4677m) is nestled.

After your arrival, your mountain guide will relay pertinent instructions for the next day’s climb and will help to prepare all the needed gear. The Nuevos Horizontes hut is a very, very basic accommodation with one big area, where both the bunkbeds and the kitchen are located. The hut has the basic services necessary, such as a kitchen, dining tables, and toilets.

This morning you’ll set your sights on the North Ilinza, one of the twin summits of the Iliniza massif. The north summit is the easier of the two from a technical point of view but is still a demanding physical ascent. The climb starts from Nuevos Horizontes hut (4677m) and kicks off with a hike heading towards the col and then up to the north. The climb is very panoramic, as it follows the southern ridge of the mountain with mind-blowing landscapes on both sides. During the ascent, there will be short easy scrambling sections prior to reaching the summit. Depending on the logistics, weather conditions and the physical shape of the team, the descent can be done by the same trail or by following the northern ridge, which heads down a big scree area making it into a circular route. Back at the parking area, the team will transfer 3-hours to Cotopaxi National Park for a well-earned rest.

The town of Baños, as it is locally known, lies in the Tunguragua province at the foothills of the active Tunguragua Volcano (5023m). Baños is called the “Gateway to the Amazon” as it is the last Andean town before reaching the Amazon basin. Due to its privileged location, this town offers a great deal of activities. The best known are the hot springs (baños), which one can enjoy at several locations around the town. Outdoor sports are also popular here, like mountain biking, rock climbing, hiking, etc.

Baños also has some great scenery with the famous waterfalls that lie just a few kilometres down the valley. The best known are “El Pailon del Diablo” (Devil’s pot) and “El Manto de la Novia” (the bride’s veil), which can be visited by taking a local taxi. The “Tarabita” (Cable-car) to cross over the Pastaza River is also an experience well-worth embarking on and it is also possible to hike through the orchards and gardens of the local inhabitants.

In short, there are plenty of options to adventure in Baños, but the option to take it easy today is also on the table.

After a day of leisure and a relaxing morning in the town of Baños, the group will pack up and drive 3 hours back to the highland towards Chimborazo National Park. On the way, there will be a couple of short stops and time to buy the last snacks before leaving “civilization” behind.

Chimborazo Volcano is an impressive mountain that stands out from the “Volcanoes Avenue”. The indigenous farmed land that surrounds the mountains are all traditionally worked and very colourful during the harvest season. While driving up to the main entrance, it is possible to see very dramatic landscapes where the actions of the old eruptions have shaped the geography of this area. After crossing the park borders, the landscape turns very arid, like a desert.

The road goes all the way to the door of the lower hut “Refugio Hermanos Carrel” (4800m), where a 1-hour acclimatization hike starts by a moraine valley up to the Whymper Hut (5000m) and then back down to the Carrel hut where you will spend the night. The rest of the afternoon and evening will be devoted to preparations for the climb followed by an early dinner. The mountain guides will provide all the information and help to assure the best logistics for the demanding climb ahead.

Chimborazo is the highest mountain in Ecuador and also the highest in the world when measured from the center of the earth, due to its location on the tropical belt. The mountain has five major summits all linked by a ridge called the “Arista del Sol” (Sun’s ridge). The main summit is the Whymper (6268m), named after the British mountaineer Edward Whymper who has the first person to climb it in 1880 along with the Swiss Carrel brothers.

Climbing Chimborazo by its normal Southwest route is a challenging affair—a long 1468 meters ascent and descent in one push at a considerable altitude. The terrain is also complex, as it changes from an easy moraine trail to ice, snow and rock sections, with some easy scrambling at some specific spots. Even though it is not a technical climb, it is physically demanding. The climb starts between 10PM and 1AM, according to the team’s fitness, acclimatization level and meteorological conditions.

The first part of the route is no longer the normal route, but a variant known as the “Marco Cruz route”, named after the legendary Ecuadorian mountaineer who first ascended it. This variant joins the normal route after “El Castillo” rock pillar, making the ascent much safer and more scenic. Once on the march, the first part (1h) is basically a flat moraine until it begins to get steeper, with a few scrambling sections, before reaching the top of the ridge. After a short while walking on the ridge, an exposed section reveals itself as you hike around the “El Castillo” rock before reaching a flat area where the variant route joins the normal route. The glacier rises on a wide ridge that goes up to an approximate altitude of 5850m. From this point, a gentle traverse elevates westwards reaching 6000m and then a relatively straight up climb to the first summit: the Veintimilla (6230m). Then, descend a few meters to cross a col and then back up to the main summit: Whymper (6268m). This is a memorable ascent to a summit above 6000 meters and a true test of physical and mental endurance.

The descent is done by the same route back to the Carrel hut and, after packing, there will be a transfer ready to take the group back to Quito where the tour ends. The drive back to Quito takes approximately 4 hours.